On the House

7 Questions for Olana Restaurant’s Mixologist, New York City

Tom Lavin
Mixologist,
Olana

The spring cocktail menu at Olana, a recently opened restaurant on Madison Avenue in Manhattan with an upscale American menu with Italian influences, provides guests with a choice of nine new libations, many of which feature fresh twists on classics – such as the Hudson Sidecar and the Vanilla Lemon Drop. These new drinks are the creations of Tom Lavin, mixologist at Olana. He uses rich ingredients and liquors in his cocktails, which he says matches the elegant and yet rustic ambiance of Olana. The place is named after American painter Frederic Edwin Church and decorated in the Hudson River School style. Lavin’s cocktails contain fresh ingredients, and he’s currently concocting fruit-infused brandies for his cocktails, such as apricot and pear, which sit in large glass vessels behind the bar. Lavin also works closely with Southern Wine & Spirits, which supplies many of the spirits on his eclectic menu.

Lavin started his career as a bartender in 1992 at the bustling Edward Moran’s in Manhattan’s financial district, but says it was at the fine dining establishment Amanda’s in Hoboken, NJ, where he become creative with cocktails. Later, he spiced things up southwestern-style at the Shoreline Grill in Austin, TX, where he fashioned drinks such as the Gin Ginger Martini, using habanero pepper syrup. But through it all, Lavin maintains that the classic cocktails have the most staying power and are still the best. But he loves to give his classics a modern twist. His Corpse Riviver No. 2, for example, changes up the New Orleans classic with the recently launched Lucid Absinthe, instead of herbsaint; along with Plymouth Gin, Cointreau, the French aperitif wine Blond Lillet, and fresh lemon. His greatest influences have been mixologists Dale DeGroff and Audrey Saunders.

The Beverage Information Group (BIG): Please give me a brief synopsis of your background as a mixologist – where you’ve worked and how you honed your craft. Also, were there any mixologists that inspired you along the way?

Tom Lavin: I started working full time in the restaurant business in 1992, after college, at Edward Moran's in the financial center in New York. That's where I met Bill Resk, one of the managing partners here at Olana. From Moran’s, I moved on to help Eugene Flinn open the expansion of Amanda’s Restaurant in Hoboken, NJ. It was there, in that fine dining atmosphere and with Eugene's help, that I started to become more creative with cocktails.

After that I moved to Austin, TX, where I spent a little over two years at the Shoreline Grill creating drinks with a southwestern heat, such the Gin Ginger Martini with habanero syrup. However, Flinn called on me again after he purchased and agreed to restore the old classic, Cafe Elysian in Hoboken. I am still there on Friday nights because I love the place, in addition to my work at Olana. I am a big follower of Dale DeGroff and Audrey Saunders, two pioneers in mixology.

BIG: How would you describe the new spring cocktail menu at Olana?

Lavin: Since the opening was delayed a bit, the winter drink menu became a little outdated since we've moved quickly into spring. Allen Katz of Southern Wine & Spirits came aboard to help with the new spring menu and he brought along some of Southern's product such as Absolut Vanilia and Lucid Absinthe. The Absolut Vanilia is used in our Brooklyn Railyard, which also has pear liqueur, fresh lime, and Peychaud’s bitters. Pear flavor is also used in my Hudson Sidecar, which combines infused pear brandy with Cointreau, fresh lemon, Pernod and egg white.

Another drink on our new menu, quite appropriate for spring and very on-trend, is the Strawberry Caipirinha, which shakes fresh strawberry with Agua Luca Cachaca and fresh lime. And our Baja Daisy is a mix of Sauza Hornitos Plata Tequila, fresh lime and oregat syrup. For something different, I did the Frizante Mojito, which adds Prosecco to the 7 year-aged Flor de Cana Rum, fresh mint and fresh lime.

BIG: Food and cocktail pairings are becoming increasingly popular at restaurants these days. Can you recommend a pairing of one of the cocktails with a menu item at Olana?

Lavin: When we did the cocktail menu we definitely wanted to compliment chef Al Dimeglio's menu. I wanted to use rich ingredients and dark liquors to match the feel of the restaurant: elegant and rustic at once. However, I don't think the trend of pairing cocktails with food will ever truly happen but matching each menu is still very important. Someone might enjoy an Apricot Cobbler -- made with homemade infused apricot brandy, Cointreau, fresh lemon juice and a dash of egg white -- before their meal and then see on the menu a Roasted Rabbit stuffed with almonds, apricots, and foie gras.

BIG: You have an interesting drink on your menu, called Corpse Riviver No. 2, which is prepared with Lucid Absinthe. What was your inspiration in creating this drink? Now that absinthe is back, after being banned for nearly 100 years – what do you think the demand for it will be – is it the next big thing in cocktails or will it’s popularity be short-lived?

Lavin: I believe in using the old classic recipes in mixology -- ones that have been around the longest are usually the best. You try and put a modern twist on them, as well. When Absinthe became legal last summer I wanted to do something with it at Olana. The Corpse Reviver No. 2 is a classic recipe from Arnaud's in New Orleans that I thought should be acknowledged again for its complexity. It used to be made with herbsaint but since Absinthe is now legal again, we've gone back to using that in the drink.

The resurgence of Absinthe has leveled off a bit since it was first released but I think the demand for it will be steady as people learn that it is real and is now back on the market and it is an incredibly complex and delicious experience -- and it is a great ingredient to use with cocktails.

BIG: Several of the drinks on your cocktail menu are prepared with infused spirits, for example, apricot-infused brandy. Please indicate what fruit infusions you’re currently working with. Also, there’s a trend today with infusions and fresh ingredients – What is the demand for then and are consumers generally willing to pay more for them?

Lavin: Making your own infusions like a pear brandy for Olana’s Hudson Sidecar is a great way to custom create a flavorful complex cocktail. I've noticed in the past few years that the liquor companies have caught onto this and are marketing their own "infusions" like Absolut Pears Vodka. There is definitely a demand for cocktails with fresh ingredients. My cocktails all use fresh lemon or lime, where it’s called for. They bring about a uniqueness to a cocktail that consumers are absolutely willing to pay more for. One fresh drink for spring is the Pomegranate Sour, made with pomegranate juice, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup and Absolut Citron.

BIG: What trends are you seeing today in mixology, and what are the most popular cocktails overall? There seems to be a vodka craze going on; is vodka the most asked for spirit?

Lavin: Vodka has been the craze for awhile now and I don't see it waning. The biggest trend going is the continuing growth of flavored vodkas which provide something different for the vast array of people's taste.

BIG: What is it that you enjoy most about bartending, and what is its greatest challenge?

Lavin: The best thing about being a bartender is all the different people you encounter in a typical evening...the most challenging thing as a bartender is exactly the same as the best. The only way to survive and become a great bartender is you must have patience. The best ones all do.

In Recent Poll, Most Favor Direct Sale of Alcohol, But With ID Checks

In our latest poll, we stated that violations and noncompliance to state liquor laws have been on the increase, prompting the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA) to send letters last month to alcohol regulators of all 50 states, strongly urging them to enforce the laws in place and crack down on violators. This is clearly a hot issue, and affects all segments of the beverage alcohol industry. It can also get complicated, as laws can vary from state to state. In our poll question, we asked if beverage alcohol suppliers should be allowed to ship product directly to consumers.

Interestingly, the majority of respondents – almost 42 percent – agreed that direct shipment of alcohol products should be allowed, but only if interstate purveyors check ID’s to ensure that the recipients of these products are of legal drinking age. However, while another approximately 28 percent of respondents agreed that beverage alcohol ought to be shipped directly to consumers, this group stressed that some regulatory body needs to be in place to ensure that tainted product or items expressly banned in certain jurisdictions are not sold or shipped.

But another large group of respondents – a bit more than 27 percent – disagreed with direct shipping. This segment feels that the three-tier distribution system is viable and works for the industry and that it should be the law in all 50 states. In another surprise, no respondents of the poll chose the fourth option: that where a ban on interstate shipping exists, enforcement should be stepped up and violators prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. To check out the current poll question, visit www.BevInfoGroup.com.

Fritz Maytag to be Honored by the James Beard Foundation

San Francisco drinks legend Fritz Maytag, head of the Anchor Brewing Company, Anchor Distilling Company and York Creek Vineyards, will be awarded a Lifetime Achievement Award by the James Beard Foundation, it was announced today. The presentation will be made during a gala ceremony in New York City on June 8.

Commonly regarded as the father of modern American craft brewing, Maytag purchased an interest in the flagging Anchor Brewing Company in 1965, purportedly to keep the operation from going under. With no experience in brewing or running a brewery, Maytag admits that the early years were a struggle, but he persevered and by the early 1970's owned the company outright. Among his more gutsy, if not outlandish moves were the introduction of a hoppy pale ale (Liberty Ale) and barleywine (Old Foghorn) in 1975 and the creation of what was likely America's first post-Prohibition Christmas beer (Our Special Ale, commonly known as simply "Anchor Christmas Beer").

In 1994, Maytag added a distillery to his business and began crafting an authentically old fashioned rye whiskey called Old Potrero. Other spirits, including a boldly juniper-flavored gin called Junipero, soon followed.

It is safe to say that hundreds, perhaps thousands of craft brewery owners and operators have found inspiration in Maytag's spirit and tenacity. And just as he motivated by example the development of small scale brewing in the United States (and beyond!), he is also today providing leadership to a new generation of micro-distillers.

For more information, visit the James Beard Awards homepage at http://jbfawards.com.

Vaya con Dios, Amigo

Today, I learned that one of my bartenders from my last operations job passed away. He was one of my closest friends at that job; my right-hand guy, my liaison between management and the staff. My inventory buddy. It’s very sad. He wasn’t even 40.

Sadder still was that I hadn’t seen him in a number of years, because, as so often happens, one moves on from one job to another and, even though you thought you’d never lose touch, you do.

Oh, you SAY you won’t, but it’s the very nature of our business that we get close to the trench mates who surround us now and we leave behind the ones we truly cared about when we worked together. Why do we do that? Are our relationships that superficial?

No, not superficial, but, apparently, conditional. Conditional on the fact that we work together and see each other every day. And when we don’t, out of sight, out of mind. We find a whole new set of people in the next job to immerse ourselves in. New people to watch the sunrise with after a slammin’ Friday night. To sweat in the trenches with when the AC goes out on a hot August night. To laugh and point at people with from the behind the bar. New people to head to the local after-work watering hole with.

Certainly, there are those whose friendship remains throughout the years and jobs. My best friend and a couple of ex-fiancés come to mind. But most of our co-workers will one day fall by the wayside and we won’t see or hear about them again until something like this happens. We get the call from yet another beloved ex- co-worker we haven’t seen in years with the sad news and the memories of lost friends come rushing back.

The very bad news is you have to go send your friend off way too early and far ahead of his time; the good news, if there is any, is that you get to see some of those people who wandered off and catch up on the last 5, 10, 20 years.

So, we gather, older and hopefully wiser, to say good-bye to someone we essentially said good-bye to years before, though we didn’t know it at the time and to say hello again to others, with the requisite promises of getting together ‘soon.’

But you know you never will. You want to. But you don’t.

This fact doesn’t make these friendships any less real...just real for a specific place in time. And, in this business, we are bound to have a lot of people come and go in our lives...again, the nature of the business.

But we should do whatever we can to let the people we care about know that we do, so we don’t end up telling their family on some sad day in a church filled with flowers how much we loved them and how they will be missed.

Kevin made my time in that bar more fun. Now he’ll be pulling brews and telling jokes to the angels at that Big Bar in the Sky. And I’ll tell his family that I’ll miss him. I should have told him.

*******

If you have questions or comments for the Beverage Goddess, you may contact Her Highness at [email protected].

7 Questions: Mercer Estates’ Owner

Mike Hogue
Owner
Mercer Estates

Washington State wine grew by 5 percent in 2007, with 8.6 million cases consumed – ranking it eighth in the nation, according to Beverage Information Group research. The latest entry to the state’s winemaking industry, Mercer Estates in Prosser – in March launches its first releases of four white wines – Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling – with two red wines to follow next year (suggested retail for the portfolio is in the $15 to $24 range). This new winery is family owned and run by two of the best-known farming and wine grape growing families in Washington – the Mercer and Hogue families. Co-owners Mike Hogue and Bud Mercer say their main objective is to secure the best fruit from the Columbia Valley area and produce outstanding wines.

The Hogue name is, of course, already well known on the national wine scene. Hogue Cellars, the second largest winery in Washington (grew 11.6 percent in 2007 to just under 500,000 cases), was sold in August 2001 and today is part of the Centerra Wine Company, a unit of Constellation Wines, the largest wine company in the U.S. by volume. Mike Hogue continues to grow grapes for the winery that bears his name.

The son of a hop farmer in the Columbia Valley, Hogue was first introduced to the wine industry in 1978 and learned firsthand from Walter Clore, a widely respected figure in the state’s winemaking business. Here, Hogue uncorks all the details of Mercer Estates, how it got started and how he plans to build awareness for the brand, and what’s special about the Columbia Valley’s vineyards.

The Beverage Information Group (BIG): Mercer Estates launches its first white wine releases this month. But how did you get there – how long have you been thinking about operating a private winery? What influenced you to branch out on your own with Mercer Estates?

Mike Hogue: I never really left the wine business because through the last five-plus years I have continued to be a grower for many other Washington wineries. The idea of a new winery came from my daughter Barb and son-in-law Ron, when they approached me about partnering with their friends, the Mercer family. I really enjoyed the challenge and journey of growing a brand. My past success has energized and encouraged me to see if I could do it again.

BIG: What will be your role and major responsibilities at Mercer Estates, and what will be the responsibilities of your partner, Bud Mercer?

Hogue: Both Bud and me are going to be responsible for exactly the same thing we have always done – securing the best fruit. Through our family knowledge and relationships with the vineyard managers we are able to give David Forsyth (our wine maker) the best possible grapes to make the finest wine Washington has to offer.

BIG: Upper Columbia Valley is certainly an up-and-coming wine region. What is it about this region that differentiates it or is distinctive, in terms of producing wine grapes?

Hogue: With the Horse Heaven Hills appellation, its distinctive characteristics are south-facing slopes, well-drained silt loam soils, long warm days to ripen the grapes completed by cool evening and nights to preserve the grapes’ natural acidity for balanced wines, and the moderating influence of the Columbia River.

BIG: How would you describe the Mercer Estates portfolio? Just wondering, are Mercer wines in a different price tier from Hogue – Mercer ranges from $15 to $25, suggested retail -- isn’t that generally more than Hogue’s prices?

Hogue: In the beginning, we are going to make wines that showcase the best fruit from our estate vineyards. We are producing four whites – Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, and two reds – Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The sourcing, hands-on approach and quantities are just three examples of how these wines will differ from anything Hogue has and currently produces. Concerning the pricing, that is true for some of the Hogue wines but not all. Remember that Hogue produces three different tiers of wine and some of those wines are actually higher priced than Mercer is going to be.

BIG: The Mercer Estates white wines are being released in March, followed by the red varietals next year. Why the time lag in launching the reds and whites? How many bottles (or cases) of wine do you expect to produce this year; will that number be amped up next year – and next?

Hogue: We are using some new vineyard sites and they are not yet producing wine-ready grapes. An example of this is the Dead Canyon Vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills, which was planted just a few years ago. These vineyards will be coming on-line over the next few years and our red wines will increase as this maturation process occurs. We have produced 15,000 total cases for sale in 2008. Yes, that number will go to about 28,000 cases next year.

BIG: What is your strategy to distribute Mercer wines in the marketplace – both in the on- and off-premise markets? How do you plan to achieve brand recognition for Mercer on a national basis?

Hogue: In 2008, we will be launching in six states around the country – Washington, New York, New Jersey, Georgia, Illinois, and Colorado. Because of our small production this year we will be focusing on restaurants, fine wine shops and some grocery channels in markets where applicable. We are planning to use any and all of the avenues that are opened to us including our website, tasting room, events, tastings, wine dinners and any and all festivals.

BIG: And finally, regarding the wine industry in Washington today – as a veteran winemaker, what do you see as its greatest accomplishments and does it face any challenges?

Hogue: Concerning Washington’s wine industry, we feel that our ability to make world class wines that have been recognized by all media channels in a very competitive and increasingly more difficult business environment has brought us our past success. Our greatest challenge is our greatest pleasure – that’s building awareness.

In Latest Poll, NYC Regulation Posting Calorie Counts on Menus Called Unfair

Results from our latest poll indicated that a New York City regulation passed recently, requiring chain restaurants with more than 15 outlets nationally to display calorie information on menu boards, is unfair. The regulation is aimed at stemming obesity, and is set to start on March 31. However, restaurant lobbyists have been in federal court trying to obtain a restraining order while they fight the order (they have been successful in doing so in the past).

Two poll groups had roughly the same number of respondents – nearly 34 percent. One group agreed that the regulation is unfair, as it could lead to lost beverage business for operators. This could occur if consumers are negatively influenced by calorie counts on menus and decide not to order a cocktail or glass of wine; or, are dissuaded by calorie information from ordering a second drink. But an equal number of respondents were willing to compromise: They said the regulation could be fair if re-worked so that calorie information is posted not on menu boards, but elsewhere in the restaurant.

But there were other viewpoints as well. The two remaining groups – who each shared approximately 17 percent of the total vote – were split on whether it’s fair or not. One group said it’s fair simply because consumers have the right to know the amount of calories they are consuming during a meal at a restaurant. But opposing this, the other group claimed that since it is difficult to accurately gauge the number of calories in a cocktail or even a glass of wine, since drinks are often not prepared or poured in exactly the same way, it is best to leave calorie counts off menus. To express your views on our current poll question, go to www.BevInfoGroup.com.

In Recent Poll, Most Say Anheuser-Busch’s Purus Vodka Likely to Fill a Niche

In a recent poll, we asked if the launch of Anheuser Busch’s Purus Vodka would be the brewer’s big break into the spirits market. The majority of respondents – approximately 40 percent – basically said that time will tell, but the brand will likely attract a smaller, niche market of loyal followers, at least in the short term. This makes sense, as vodka drinkers tend to find a brand they enjoy and stick to it. However, roughly 27 percent felt the brand will be more widely successful, but only if the brewer backs Purus with sales and marketing muscle and/or gets a high profile personality to endorse it.

But roughly 20 percent of those who responded were more skeptical about the product launch. This segment agreed that the high-end vodka market is already saturated and Purus will likely remain in the background. The final group of respondents, however, heartily endorsed Purus Vodka as a product that would likely enjoy substantial success. They concurred that Purus Vodka is in tune with consumer trends of increased consumption in the super-premium spirits category as well as the popularity of eco-friendly packaging.

Why ‘The Session’ is Worth Following

Every month or so, I try to blog in this space about one specific beer or style of beer as part of a collective blogging effort known as The Session. If you visit On the House regularly, you’ve probably come across one or two such posts, and depending upon your level of interest in that particular beer type, either read it with interest or passed on to the next post.

This past Friday was the thirteenth edition of ‘The Session,’ and while it was one I missed reporting on here, it is also reportage that very much merits a look. Why? Because the subject concerns one of the hottest button topics in brewing today: Organic beer.

Whether or not you feel that organic beer – or wine or vodka or whatever – is a legitimate issue is hardly relevant to this discussion. (For the record, some bloggers felt that organic is very much a significant movement in beer, while others were far more skeptical.) The fact is that an increasing number of customers are interested in organics, and while the sales may be small to modest at present, this is one trend that could catch fire big time at pretty much any time. Remain unaware of what’s out there and you may wind up losing valuable trade to your competitors.

Which is why I suggest a visit to the Session round-up over at Chris O’Brien’s Beer Activist Blog is worthwhile. You may catch wind of a beer or beers you’ll be hearing quite a bit about in the not-too-distant future.

Worldwide Bartender Database

The concept of the Worldwide Bartender Database, an informal organization that we started on the Ardent Spirits web site about a year ago, was born out of laziness. Who knew that it would end up making more work for me? Sometimes you just can’t win.

About a year ago I started to get fed up of all the email requests I was getting from liquor companies. They’d write stuff such as “Do you happen to know anyone in Chicago who could put together an event for us? We have 800 professional arm-wrestlers coming to a cocktail party and we need someone to create new drinks for them and organize everything by the day after tomorrow. We don’t have a location yet. The drinks need to be made from sustainable products. Organic, if possible.” You know the sort of thing, right?

I happen to know more than a few bartenders, and more than a dozen of them read our Ardent Spirits newsletter so I figured that if we got them all together on one database I’d be able to reach out to everyone at once, and hopefully the liquor companies would leave me alone. In one respect it turned out better than that—the liquor companies started to pay me to post announcements in our weekly Worldwide Bartender Bulletin, and I could really use some cash right now.

On the other hand, as more and more people heard about the bulletin, more and more emails started to pour in: “We’re looking for someone to serve jelly shots to the guests at a wedding that’s taking place under water in a tank full of sharks in Florida . . .” That sort of stuff.

Bartenders tend to talk a lot, so not long after putting the database together we had over a couple of hundred members, within a few months it got to be 500, and now we’re just about at the 1,000 mark and things are starting to explode. It’s one of those, “You tell two friends, and they tell two friends” sort of thing, I think. Thus far the bulletin has found three full-time brand-ambassadors for major liquor companies, lots of cocktail consultants have gotten gigs by answering ads in the bulletin, and bartenders have been hired at some pretty impressive bars and restaurants that have advertised with us. Restaurant Daniel, Chef Daniel Boulud’s prestigious place in Manhattan, currently has an ad in the bulletin, for instance. It’s tough to shake a stick at a job like that, right?

I could ramble some more, but I just heard from a P.R. agency that is looking to find six bartenders who are willing to mix cocktails while sky diving. If you can think of anyone. . . . . contact Gary Regan, [email protected]; www.ardentspirits.com; http://www.ardentspirits.com/ardentspirits/Database/

INDUSTRY INNOVATOR MOST WORTHY HONOREE

I find it marvelously comforting when someone genuinely deserving of recognition receives a prestigious award. It’s even better when the person is warm, talented, and industrious as well. Certifiably groovy folk, like spunky underdogs everywhere, rarely reel in the hardware. When they do, which statistically is not often, the matter deserves noting.

As it so happens, the opening program of the Cheers Beverage Conference, as in the previous 10 years, included the presentation of the highly esteemed Awards for Beverage Excellence, the on-premise equivalent of the Nobel. As Cheers’ editor Donna Hood-Crecca approached the podium to make the presentation, the roughly 800 attendees drew quiet, an air of anticipation settled over the room.

“And this year’s recipient of the Cheers’ “Industry Innovator of the Year” award is...Ann Rogers Tuennerman.” The place erupted in applause and enthusiastic whoops, a resounding endorsement of the selection. Presidential candidates would kill for such a spontaneous ovation, not that they’d get it. Applauding for the much liked and respected Ann and acknowledging her considerable accomplishments was a genuine treat.

For those of us in the international drink community, Ann Rogers Tuennerman is something of a celebrity. She’s the founder of the globally renowned “Tales of the Cocktail,” an annual celebration paying tribute to the extraordinary life and times of the cocktail as a classic American art form. The five-day event will be held this July 16-20 in New Orleans French Quarter.

In 2007, the fifth annual Tales of the Cocktail drew more than 12,000 attendees with first-class food and drink and events such as spirit and dinner pairings (Spirited Dinners), cocktail tastings, book-signings, a Bar Chef Challenge, and variety of seminars and demonstrations on classic and popular themes in cocktail mixology. The festival targets mixologists, authors, chefs, bartenders, designers and cocktail gurus from around the world.

The celebrated event draws the finest, most famous mixologists, bar chefs and industry personages, bar stars such as Dale DeGroff, Tony Abou-Ganim, Jim Meehan, Toby Cecchini, Simon Ford, Gary Regan, Ted Haigh, Robert Hess, Audrey Saunders, Julie Reiner, Francesco LaFranconi and Kevin Brauch.

Tales of the Cocktail is hosted by the non-profit New Orleans Culinary and Cultural Preservation Society. Its mission is to preserve the rich history of the restaurants and bars of New Orleans and the unique culture of dining and drinking famous to the city, while educating locals, visitors, and the hospitality industry about this culinary heritage.

Ann Rogers Tuennerman has created one of the most spirited, thoroughly enjoyable gigs in the country. Tales is a “can’t miss” event hosted by the coolest city in North America. A grateful and parched nation thanks you, Ann, you’re the mint in our Mojito.