On the House

HOW WILL THEY REACT WITH THE CHIPS ON THE LINE?

Expect the unexpected. It’s a common enough saying, but one I think that’s especially true in this business.

Take for example an incident that occurred not too long ago at a high-profile sports bar in Florida. A young man seated at the bar was beginning to show signs of impairment, so one of the two bartenders on duty refused the man further service. He became suddenly enraged, withdrew a knife from his pocket; and with all deliberate force, impaled his own hand to the bar top.

The man started howling in pain. The bartenders stared in horror and started screaming. Pandemonium broke out in the lounge as mortified guests scrambled out of their seats and bolted for the doors. Although agitated, the manager on duty had the presence of mind to call the police, and then quickly started calming the panicked guests.

Alerted by the commotion, the two doormen threaded their way inside through the onrushing crowd, raced to the bar, and grabbed the frenzied man from behind. At the same moment, one of the line cooks went behind the bar, took hold of the man’s wrist and extracted the knife from his hand. The doormen and several employees struggled to hold onto him. When the police arrived, it took three officers to handcuff the man, who by that point was hovering somewhere between shock and dementia.

What would you have done in that situation? What would your employees do? Granted it’s a horrendous occurrence, and hopefully neither you nor your staff will ever find yourself eye to eye with someone crazed. But I consider one of the marks of a talented management team is preparing the staff to cope with the unexpected. Anticipating situations before they occur and devising a strategy for handling them when they do, can make all the difference.

Most situations that arise on a daily basis are prosaic and far less complicated. For instance, a young man around sixteen years old walks up to your bar and orders a non-alcoholic beer. What should your bartender do? Is it advisable to serve a minor an O’Doul’s or Sharps when their labels state they contain alcohol? While it’s true they contain less than .05% alcohol by volume, the brew could potentially have a deleterious affect on the person. Regardless of your decision, the staff should know how you want that situation handled.

Have you addressed the question of whether to serve alcohol to a pregnant woman? The danger to the unborn fetus is beyond dispute and yet is there sufficient grounds to refuse service? Many on your staff may have serious reservations about serving alcohol to an obviously pregnant woman. You may perceive the conflict and yet not feel the business has a legitimate right to take a confrontational posture. The situation has the potential to be a flash point — it has already sparked a fair amount of controversy. It’s better to discuss the matter now than when it presents itself during the next happy hour.

What if two people sit down and order three drinks, the third cocktail ostensibly for a friend in the rest room or parking the car? Should the bartender prepare and serve all three drinks? This is a relatively common ploy. The missing person is likely under age or already intoxicated. What if your bartenders had never encountered the situation and proceeded to serve the alcohol?

Along the same lines, does your staff know how you want them to handle a customer who orders a drink and says “and make it a strong one!” People who want something for nothing can be a vexing problem for bartenders and servers alike. Talk it over and help them develop a strategy to effectively deal with it.

I think one of the most difficult situations to handle is an intoxicated guest in a party of four or five with open bottles of wine on the table. How do you prevent the person from consuming more alcohol, thereby fulfilling your legal obligation without removing all of the alcohol from the table? What advice would you offer your service staff?

Like cooking with grease, the potential for a major flare-up between people drinking alcohol seemingly goes with the territory. Yet acts of violence on your licensed premises pose a significant problem. You are legally obligated to protect the physical safety and welfare of your guests and employees. Whether the person was the aggressor or victim, each must be protected from harm and injury. The days of telling combatants to “take it outside” are long gone.

Have you covered with your staff how you want them to respond to fights on-premise? Do they understand that the licensed premise also includes the parking lot? Are they to physically intervene or back off and call the police? What are they to do if weapons are involved? Of equal importance, have you instructed your security in the concepts of excessive force and illegal detention? The actions of over-zealous security personnel can be construed as an act of violence.

Perhaps the most precarious and dangerous incident that can happen at your business is an armed robbery, and here again you can help your staff anticipate how best to respond. The operation is most vulnerable at closing, a time when there is the most cash on-hand and the fewest employees on-premise. Urge your staff to remain calm, and to follow the perpetrator’s commands completely and without hesitation. Money can be replaced, human life cannot.

I’ve had this type of training. Instruct your staff to make slow, deliberate movements, to tell the perpetrator in advance everything they are about to do, and to keep their hands within sight. If they need to place their hands where the robber can’t see them, they should tell the perpetrator what they’re doing. In addition, they shouldn’t stare directly into the robber’s eyes. It will heighten his anxieties and general state of paranoia. Employees should open the cash drawer and back away, allowing unobstructed access to the money.

At the police academy, cadets are taught that in a crisis situation, a person can do one of two things — panic or think. The police are trained to think, so should your employees.

DECONSTRUCTING THE JANOS TOUCH

Often the secret behind a highly successful restaurant is uncovered reading between the lines. Menu composition, location analysis and food controls often pale in importance to such things as passion and tenacity.

Such is one of the invaluable lessons I’ve learned from my friendship with Janos Wilder, a peach of a human being and one of the Southwest’s most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs. A self-trained culinary wizard, Wilder personifies the belief that a burning creative desire and dogged determination can achieve anything.

In 1983, the then 29-year-old Wilder opened Janos Restaurant in the historic Presidio area of downtown Tucson, having convinced a handful of backers to finance the venture. The consortium’s shaky investment paid off handsomely for Wilder went on to create a beautiful, world-class restaurant. Gourmands, like the rest of us amateur eaters, quickly became enthralled with Janos and its trendsetting menu, an innovative cuisine marrying the sensibility and subtlety of French cooking with the fresh, vibrant ingredients of the Southwest.

In 1998, Wilder relocated his restaurant to its present location in a freestanding building on the grounds of the Westin La Paloma Resort and Spa. Housed under the same roof is J BAR, a casual, less expensive alternative to the fine dining Janos. The 60-seat J BAR is has a light and airy feel with a large patio and panoramic views of the Tucson Valley. The menu is a brilliant ensemble of flavors of Mexico, Latin American and the Caribbean.

At 53, Janos is the first to admit that his ascent into the upper echelons of the restaurant industry was largely unscripted. Despite his unconventional approach, my vertically challenged friend is a walking graduate program on how to succeed in the restaurant business. What he dismisses as Old School common sense, I see as fodder for a master’s dissertation. Were I ever to write such a thing, it would be entitled, “Deconstructing the Janos Touch,” and minimally include the following.

• VENI, VEDI, VECI — Twenty-five years ago Janos foresaw the tremendous potential of Southwest and Caribbean cooking and made the flavor-laded cuisines the core of his concept. He applied traditional French methodology and relied on fresh indigenous ingredients. Even during downturns in his business that greatly tested his determination, Wilder stayed the course. He resisted raising prices during those lean years, and continued striving to perfect his craft and take his cuisine new heights. By the time food trends in the country caught up with Wilder, the name Janos was already a marketable franchise.

• EQUAL BILLING — Janos is steadfast that a motivated, hospitable and knowledgeable staff is the ultimate “X” factor in the success equation. He has developed what I think is an enlightened approach toward his employees that has proven remarkably effective. Although he retains the right to cast a veto, Janos allows his staff to set their own schedules, which since its inception has improved the work environment and dissipated a large source of grievances. The staff also participates in the hiring of new employees, both during interviews and ultimately deciding who is hired. Upward mobility within the company is strongly encouraged, which helps keep staff morale and retention extraordinarily high.

• MARKETING ACUMEN — Tucson is a seasonal town. When the heat sets in, hotels, resorts and restaurants ramp down conceding a drop in business. Wilder has always taken the opposite approach. He targets his marketing and promotion efforts for the summer months and lures large numbers of his clientele with innovative fixed menus and engaging food and beverage pairings such that his restaurant’s numbers don’t change during the slow months. Janos succeeds when most others merely endure.

• JOINT VENTURE — Somewhat atypical for a renowned chef, Wilder places emphasis on the creative output of his bar. He fully appreciates the synergy between food and beverage, and that excellence in both areas is requisite for a total guest experience. At J BAR, his bartenders tempt guests with Latin- and Caribbean-influenced drinks, refreshingly delicious cocktails such as the Watermelon Margarita and Guadalajara Cooler, a refreshing blend of Membrillo quince liqueur and a bevy of freshly squeezed juices. As a result, the lounge at J BAR is as much of a draw as the snazzy food.

• JANOS FACTOR — It’s often small things that matter most in a restaurant. Wilder generously shares with his protégés what he’s learned over the years and takes pride in the future successes achieved by those he worked. He talks with his staff before every shift, makes them dinner every night, and offers generous benefit packages based on their tenure.

Perhaps most importantly, Wilder has also successfully avoided the emotional pitfalls of the restaurant business. He maintains a regular work schedule, leaves before close and never works Sundays. Janos exudes vitality and his passion for the business is palpable. He walks the floor and genuinely cares that his guests are completely satisfied and the staff is happy. And then when he’s convinced that everything is spot on, he says goodnight and leaves. That’s how you stay around long enough to enjoy what you’ve built.

Not surprisingly, Janos has a slightly different take on things. “You know, you never really succeed, or reach your fullest potential. Its always just beyond reach, which perhaps is why I love to come to work everyday.”

AN ESSENTIAL COMPANION

As an author I know a thing or two about what it takes to write a book. While talent and command of the subject matter are helpful, passion and dedication are absolutely essential. Fortunately for mankind, F. Paul Pacult has an abundance of it all.

His latest work, Kindred Spirits 2 (2008 © Spirits Journal, Inc.), is a tour de force providing a fascinating in-depth look at 2400 brands of whiskey, brandy, vodka, tequila, rum, gin and liqueur. For anyone who has ever sipped, swirled and spat, Kindred Spirits 2 falls somewhere in historical significance between the corkscrew and church key.

After 20 years as the publisher and sole contributor of the esteemed Spirit Journal, Pacult has developed himself into an amazing resource. I’ve been privileged to have judged spirits with Paul, and I can say without reservation that his talents, capabilities and knowledge are absolutely extraordinary. When a spirit hits the glass, his senses slip into a gear the rest of us don’t have. It’s as if he becomes one with the alcohol and learns it secrets and hidden talents, as well as its flaws, weaknesses and criminal record.

Pacult understands what distillers were attempting to achieve and whether they did so. His reviews delve into the very heart and soul of the spirit. Not only is he the undisputed authority on the subject of alcohol and distillation, he is an exceptionally gifted writer. His reviews have substance and style; his writing precise and delightfully entertaining, especially since he refuses to equivocate. When Paul doesn’t care for a product, he tells you why in no uncertain terms. Simply put, Pacult is in a league of his own.

About the author I can only say this. After 30-years in the business, I’ve never met an individual with so many reasons to take himself too seriously, but doesn’t. His work appears in scores of publications and newspapers around the world, and high among his considerable professional accomplishments, he and Anthony Dais Blue founded the now prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition. That Paul is a prince of a human being makes it easy to be an avid fan.

Kindred Spirits 2 may well be the literary buy of the century and is guaranteed to stimulate hair growth and improve ones social status. Kudos Paul.

INDUSTRY INNOVATOR MOST WORTHY HONOREE

I find it marvelously comforting when someone genuinely deserving of recognition receives a prestigious award. It’s even better when the person is warm, talented, and industrious as well. Certifiably groovy folk, like spunky underdogs everywhere, rarely reel in the hardware. When they do, which statistically is not often, the matter deserves noting.

As it so happens, the opening program of the Cheers Beverage Conference, as in the previous 10 years, included the presentation of the highly esteemed Awards for Beverage Excellence, the on-premise equivalent of the Nobel. As Cheers’ editor Donna Hood-Crecca approached the podium to make the presentation, the roughly 800 attendees drew quiet, an air of anticipation settled over the room.

“And this year’s recipient of the Cheers’ “Industry Innovator of the Year” award is...Ann Rogers Tuennerman.” The place erupted in applause and enthusiastic whoops, a resounding endorsement of the selection. Presidential candidates would kill for such a spontaneous ovation, not that they’d get it. Applauding for the much liked and respected Ann and acknowledging her considerable accomplishments was a genuine treat.

For those of us in the international drink community, Ann Rogers Tuennerman is something of a celebrity. She’s the founder of the globally renowned “Tales of the Cocktail,” an annual celebration paying tribute to the extraordinary life and times of the cocktail as a classic American art form. The five-day event will be held this July 16-20 in New Orleans French Quarter.

In 2007, the fifth annual Tales of the Cocktail drew more than 12,000 attendees with first-class food and drink and events such as spirit and dinner pairings (Spirited Dinners), cocktail tastings, book-signings, a Bar Chef Challenge, and variety of seminars and demonstrations on classic and popular themes in cocktail mixology. The festival targets mixologists, authors, chefs, bartenders, designers and cocktail gurus from around the world.

The celebrated event draws the finest, most famous mixologists, bar chefs and industry personages, bar stars such as Dale DeGroff, Tony Abou-Ganim, Jim Meehan, Toby Cecchini, Simon Ford, Gary Regan, Ted Haigh, Robert Hess, Audrey Saunders, Julie Reiner, Francesco LaFranconi and Kevin Brauch.

Tales of the Cocktail is hosted by the non-profit New Orleans Culinary and Cultural Preservation Society. Its mission is to preserve the rich history of the restaurants and bars of New Orleans and the unique culture of dining and drinking famous to the city, while educating locals, visitors, and the hospitality industry about this culinary heritage.

Ann Rogers Tuennerman has created one of the most spirited, thoroughly enjoyable gigs in the country. Tales is a “can’t miss” event hosted by the coolest city in North America. A grateful and parched nation thanks you, Ann, you’re the mint in our Mojito.

TACKLING THE TOUGH QUESTIONS ABOUT THE CHEERS BEVERAGE CONFERENCE

The deceptive thing about change is the nearly imperceptible pace at which it occurs. For example, the products and drinks popular in bars even just five years ago have changed. How much it has changed and in what ways is crucial hard Intel for beverage operators. The products and drinks once popular may no longer be so now. At times these trends can be perceived at the street level, but more often than not they’re so broad in scope that it takes an aerial view to really see what’s going on.

Attaining that enhanced perspective is what the Cheers Beverage Conference is specifically designed to deliver. Presented by Cheers magazine, the recently concluded conference in Miami was no exception. Developed for and attended by beverage professionals, the two-day program was again a vital, dynamic learning experience, quite possibly the most valuable investment I’ll make in my career all year.

In case you missed the event, make sure to take note that the 12th Annual Cheers Beverage Conference will be held in Miami on January 20-21, 2009. Now mind you I’m not being bossy, it’s just a tip from one working stiff to another. I can even give you my reasons why you should attend, but instead I’ve decided to tackle answering the “Five Most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About the Cheers Beverage Conference.”

Here goes:

Question: “Is it really true that the conference contains no calories, carbs, and hydrogenated corn syrup?” Bill H., Yonkers, NY

Answer: That’s a great question. I checked with Cheers VP Charlie Forman and he walked me through the reams of scientific research that conclusively shows the renowned industry event is not only devoid of calories, carbs, and hydrogenated corn syrup, but it’s also free of time-robbing, self-serving, sales-oriented programs, and seminars on elementary subjects aimed at entry level employees. To the contrary, the Cheers Beverage Conference presented attendees with an agenda that included 19 graduate level seminars on such topics as liquor liability, drink menu development, beer and food pairings, wine and food pairings, and alcohol-free beverage programs.

Even better, the programs were as always taught by working beverage professionals, respected heavyweights like Tony Abou-Ganim, Patrick Henry, Evan Goldstein, Stephen Barth, Doug Frost, Stephen Beaumont, Lew Bryson and Tim Johnson. These are serious folks who know their material because they live the subject matter.

Q.) “Are there any safety concerns regarding children under the age of 5?” Bill H., Yonkers, NY

A.) Bill, good question. Among the many benefits of the Conference is the emphasis placed on providing attendees with cutting edge, up-to-the-minute market information. Several of the sessions covered the findings of consumer research conducted exclusively for Cheers magazine. The comprehensive marketing studies revealed a great deal about current drinking trends and consumer preferences. While not appropriate for a 5-year old, it provided crystal clear insights into the needs, wants and desires of the American consumer, exactly the type of hard Intel that can turn the tide. If indeed knowledge is power, I now consider myself well armed.

Q.) “Wasn’t there something on ’60 Minutes’ about the FAA restricting travel to the Cheers Conference?” Bill H., Yonkers, NY

A.) Another spot-on query, Bill. I may have missed that program because I was listening to keynoter Craig Miller, CEO of Ruth’s Chris Steak House, speak about his observations and impressions of the current marketplace. When one of the acknowledged Captains of our industry, a veteran with 36-years of hands-on experience, is willing to share his insights, I’m not only going to show up, I’m taking notes.

Q.) “Does the conference accommodate vegetarians?” Bill H., Yonkers, NY

A.) Okay, yes it does. Not only were there a number of vegetarian offerings at the event’s sponsored lunches, but each evening there was an extravagant cocktail party at which was served plenty of vegetarian spirits and meatless cocktails. Even better, the drinks were created and prepared by many of the mixology’s best and brightest, the likes of Tony Abou-Ganim, Julie Reiner, Francesco Lafranconi, Ryan Magarian, Adam Seger and Duggan McDonnell, to name but a few. What an unrivaled treat.

Q.) “Is this the same product I’ve seen advertised on TV? If so, how much does it cost?” Bill H., Yonkers, NY

A.) Your question brings to mind the last of the singular benefits of the conference, namely the ability to every year rub elbows and exchange notes with the country’s finest beverage operators. It’s an invaluable opportunity to kibitz, network and get others’ takes on what’s happening and what’s not.

I hope I’ve shed some light on why the Cheers Beverage Conference is a “can’t miss” event. Did I mention that it’s vitamin-enriched, and guaranteed to whiten your teeth five shades lighter in just 10 days? What a deal.

Dirty Sue, the Stuff of Legends

I reject the notion that I’m a snob. Sure, it’s a little unnerving how frequently I’m called that, but I figure the other patients in the ward are simply jealous.What sparked the latest wave of snob-related comments was my assertion that I had unwittingly discovered the secret to one of life’s greatest mysteries, the Dirty Martini. Naturally all within earshot inched closer and began drooling, testimony to the classic cocktail’s nearly universal appeal, and the possibility that they were heavily medicated.

I stood, paused a few moments for dramatic effect, and went on to say that the Dirty Martini is concocted with three principal ingredients— premium French vermouth, superior dry gin or vodka, and a healthy dose of olive brine. As cocktail aficionados and nightlife enthusiasts will attest, when made properly the drink is an exquisite feast for the senses.

“Naturally there’s more to it,” I whispered. “The secret to the cocktail’s magic lies not with the vermouth, or the brilliance of the spirit. Why I’ve made countless Dirty Martinis over the years at many different bars, and on each occasion I used nothing in their formulation but unimpeachable brands of dry vermouth and equally flawless spirits. Now don’t get me wrong, the results were invariably delightful and well received, but I’ve always known that an even finer version of the famous cocktail was possible.”

It wasn’t until I stopped talking that I noticed I’d emptied the room. And I was just getting to the good part too. You see, after years of struggling to unravel the enigma, I came to the realization that the X factor had to be the quality and character of the olive brine. That had to be the weak link.

In the way-back machine of my mind, I replayed the tapes of countless bartending shifts and watched a seemingly endless stream of cocktail servers pluck olives out of the garnish tray with their fingers or fake nails. Occasionally they’d deign using a toothpick to snag the slippery bastards, but usually not. At night’s end I’d chuck the brine and remaining olives back into the industrial-sized jar stored in the cooler, only to fish them out again with an old slotted spoon the next day. No wonder so many Dirty Martinis taste less than marvelous. Inferior, potentially tainted brine with swirling bits of olives and pimento can do that to a cocktail.

As fate would have it, I recently received a bottle of DIRTY SUE, THE ORIGINAL DIRTY MARTINI MIX. The label stated that the brine mix was made from premium, twice filtered olive juice and developed by two L.A. bartenders (www.dirtysue.com). Curious, I poured some of the amber colored brine into a glass and relished its savory aroma. Taking a small sip I was impressed with its luxurious, oily mouthfeel and fresh olive, brine and balsamic vinegar taste.

With growing anticipation I then combined 3 ounces of Plymouth Gin, a shot of Vya Preferred California Dry Vermouth, and 3/4 ounce of the precious Dirty Sue in an iced mixing glass. I tenderly stirred the drink and poured it into a chilled cocktail glass. So as to not skew the experience, I left the requisite olives garnish off the drink.
Unlike more pedestrian Dirty Martinis, this version had an elegant appearance with ideal clarity, a greenish hue and a tantalizing array of fresh citrus, herbal, and salty aromas. It was after the first sip I realized that the icy cold cocktail was indeed the object of my quest. The martini bathed my palate with a dreamy mix of spicy, herbal flavors, and glorious briny notes on the finish. All I can add is that the soulful experience ended far too quickly for my liking.

Now honestly, does this make me sound like a snob? Can’t one be discriminating without being branded pretentious? Herb the Attendant agrees with me about ultra-cool Dirty Sue, but thinks I’m a snob nonetheless. It must be hard to find good help.

It's Not Like Dylan Didn't Warn Us

One of the benefits of rounding fifty is the perspective it affords. Having eclipsed that age several years ago, I can honestly admit that all I know is there’ll be no Beatle reunion and the only constant is change. For those of us in the States involved in the food and beverage business, times they’re a changing.

One day last summer I sat in on a deposition of a bar owner in a liquor liability civil case. The matter hinged on whether the plaintiff could show that the liquor licensee, rather the bartender on-duty had acted negligently in over-serving a guest who subsequently caused an accident that resulted in injuries to innocent third parties.

I squirmed in my seat as the plaintiff’s attorney examined the restaurant owner about his bar’s drink pricing, portion sizes and happy hour promotions. Even the staff’s uniforms came into question. By the time the lawyer had finished grilling him about the risks inherent in serving alcohol in a crowded, under-staffed bar, the guy was nearly unintelligible. In the end the owner admitted that he would have no way of knowing whether the person had been over-served alcohol or not. The admission is all it took to sink the guy.

As society continues tightening restrictions on the consumption of alcohol, on-premise operators need to re-evaluate their pouring policies from a risk/reward perspective. Some of the practices permitted behind the bar in the past are now outdated and fraught with liability.

For example, the time has come to prohibit the service of “doubles.” Any way you look at it, doubles are more than twice as potent as a regularly prepared drink. Compounding the problem is that people typically consume doubles at about the same rate as they do regularly prepared drinks, which increases the rate the alcohol is absorbed in the bloodstream by a factor of two.

Now where is it written that beverage operators have to serve doubles? When a guest does request a double, a bartender need only respond that house policy now prohibits serving doubles, and then inquire if he or she would care for a regularly prepared drink.

Equally outdated is the practice of giving bartenders and servers a post-shift drink or allowing employees to drink at the bar when off-duty. It will prevent the bartenders from over-pouring, undercharging, or simply giving away free drinks to their co-workers, all natural temptations when serving alcohol to people with whom they work. The prohibition also reduces the possibility of employees becoming intoxicated at work, or leaving under the influence.

Another problematic area involves how spirits are portioned for drink making. In the United States, free pouring remains the most popular measuring technique with owners and bartenders alike. It involves dispensing liquor without the use of jiggers, relying rather on a bartender’s internal count or cadence to estimate the rate of flow. Free pouring is stylish, highly efficient, and requires minimal training for bartenders to attain proficiency.

From a liability standpoint though, free pouring is the riskiest and costliest measuring technique an operator can institute. The method makes it easy for bartenders to inadvertently or purposely over-portion liquor into drinks, a costly practice that both places the public at risk and greatly increases an operator’s exposure to alcohol-related liability.

Flair bartending notwithstanding, liquor control systems are a foreshadowing technology, a sign of things to come. Between the growing concern over DWI issues and steadily rising liquor costs, strict liquor control will more likely be the standard than the exception, and may even someday become a licensing requirement.

Lastly, complimentary drinks are a time-honored means of acknowledging regulars and contributing to the joy of special occasions, such as guests’ birthdays and anniversaries. Doing away with the tradition would be as wrong as mandating the use of Dixie cups.

On the other hand, indiscriminately doling out free cocktails suggests an operation has run amuck. Excessive comping is a costly practice that squashes sales and gratuities, spikes pour cost, and increases exposure to liability. Make sure that your policies clearly and accurately delineate the company’s position regarding complimentary drinks. Of course, the savvy thing to do is review the policies before they become an issue and read openly in court.

Are Owners Their Own Worst Enemies?

There are few things more flawed than generalities. They are breaches in logic and are often hurtful to those being minimized. For example, if I said that all chefs are nuts, you’d be correct in dismissing the statement as absolutely false. And while I think we all agree that most chefs are slightly mad, it’s obviously false to conclude that all chefs are therefore tetched.

The same logic applies to the assertion that bar owners and restaurateurs are their own worst enemies. Regardless of how many thousands of frontline employees mutter those very sentiments on a nightly basis, the statement can’t be true because prominent exceptions exist.

It’s quite true that this is an extraordinarily challenging, labor-dependant business. While maybe there should be prerequisites to owning a restaurant or cocktail lounge other than just possessing the financial wherewithal to open one, there aren’t. By the way, last I heard there are no competency standards necessary to being an author, spirits writer, or beverage consultant either.

Anyway, in my estimation what distinguishes a great restaurateur and bar owner is how they conduct themselves when the front doors are open. It basically boils down to their treating employees with the same respect and deference that they show their guests. How rare of traits is that?

Well, last week I spoke at a trade function, after which there was a banquet dinner for sponsors, speakers and association members. By chance or design, I was seated in the corner of the hotel’s ballroom with other beverage folks, a group comprised almost entirely of current and former bartenders.

It wasn’t long before we were swapping stories of nights spent behind the bar, nearly all involving an owner who did something inappropriate, or loathsome. It soon became apparent that we all recalled being mistreated through deeds, words, or ill temper by most of the owners we’d worked for. Collectively we acknowledged that there exists bar owners and restaurateurs who don’t fit the mold, yet something about the shared experiences rang true.

If perchance you know an owner who doesn’t treat his staff with the same abiding respect and consideration he bestows his guests, the following might make for some good reading. Were there a set of commandments that clearly established a code of conduct for owners, the tablets would certainly include the following.

• GET WITH THE PROGRAM — When on-premise, an owner needs to think of himself as part of the crew and work within the established chain of command. Few utterances can derail constructive communication more effectively than the phrase, “As the owner, I think I have the right to...” Aside from stating the obvious, it’s typically followed by an emotional outburst. Especially when doors are open, rank has no privileges.

• LEAVE THE JAGUAR AT HOME — It’s a cruel fact, but most owners are financially comfortable and not necessarily living paycheck to paycheck like the rest of us. So how about leaving the Jaguar at home and driving the family sedan when stopping by the bar or restaurant? Likewise, don’t hold the staff holiday party on your yacht, or palatial estate. Flaunting your good fortune can spark negative consequences.

• THINK FIRST — If you can’t think of anything positive or supportive to say to the staff, consider stealing a page from the State Department’s playbook and staple your lips shut until the impulse to speak subsides. If your comments are timely and operations related, address the issue with the appropriate manager. On the other hand, if your observation can wait until the morning, make a note and let the managers proceed unimpeded.

• ON THE CLOCK — Say your hellos, but don’t engage the staff in conversation while they’re working on the clock. You’re stopping them from doing their jobs. And by the way, unless you go out and party with the employees, whenever you do see them they’re on the clock. That basically means don’t engage the hourly employees in conversation. Let the management team be the beneficiary of your insights and experience.

• BEST CASE — To better protect their investment, owners need to appreciate their role in the profit/loss equation. Among those is to ensure upper management creates a positive environment in which to work, that employees are thoroughly trained and well compensated. Collectively they foster stability and reduce costly turnover, which inevitably leads to a more cohesive and professional staff. Can success be far off?

• REQUIRED SKILL SET — When the doors are open, an owner can usually only perform one invaluable function, namely schmoozing the guests. That having been said, don’t make the mistake of frequenting your own establishment as good rarely comes of it. An owner’s presence is like a virus in an organism. You’ll certainly attract undue attention from the staff, but shouldn’t that be lavished on your guests rather than your ego? Stay at home and let the managers and staff do their job.

Beverage Trends into the New Year

The deceptive thing about change is the nearly imperceptible pace at which it happens. Such is the case with shifts in consumer preferences. At times these trends can be perceived at the street level, but more often not they’re so broad in scope that it takes an aerial view to really see what’s going on.

In an extensive on-line consumer study conducted for Cheers Magazine, Mike Ginley and Next Level Marketing of Westport, Connecticut surveyed 2,260 people who frequent casual restaurant. Out of that group, 1311 (58%) responded that they had visited a chain restaurant within the past 30 days. Of those people, 728 (56%) said that they had purchased beverage alcohol while at the restaurant and they were ones selected for the study. Four hundred and two of them were (and remain) women.

Ginley and his team uncovered a number of significant consumer trends that throw light onto the question of what people in the United States really want to drink. The largest group of consumers (22%) responded that they prefer socializing with cocktails and spirits, compared with 19% who said that they are primarily beer drinkers and 11% who drink wine.

For most of us in this business, beverage plays a huge role in profitability. Industry wide beverage sales average around 25% of revenue, while at the same time account for over 50% of average gross profits. The survey found that 60% of the respondents—more than half of which were women—told us that they “usually to always” order a beverage alcohol drink when they go out for dinner. Of interest also is how the consumers responded when asked how many drinks the order per occasion. Over 80% responded that they stop after the second drink, while 32% said that they hold after the first.

It’s particularly interesting to look at what consumers have to say about what motivates them to order a particular cocktail or drink special. According to Next Level’s on-premise research, it’s clear that if your marketing strategy doesn’t include a well-conceived drink menu, you might be spinning your wheels.

The large majority of consumers (75%) said that they take the time to read drink menus and 25% of people identified drink menus as what most influences their purchasing decisions. Over 70% of consumers said that the drink descriptions are most influential, 47% were swayed by pictures of the drinks, while 41% were influenced by drinks listing brand names. These findings suggest that bar menus are a must, and that spirit branding, colorful pictures and well-written drink descriptions positive sales drivers.

In addition, the survey revealed that consumers are influenced by special price promotions. Twenty percent of the respondents stated that they were favorably predisposed to ordering drinks that were discounted in price. Incidentally, the fifth (12%) and sixth (12%) most significant influencers are drink special boards and table tents.

According to the survey, another significant order influencer is promoting drinks within the restaurant’s food menu. Seventeen percent of consumers reported that they were swayed to purchase a specialty drink while pursuing the food menu. This dovetails perfectly with the growing trend of pairing food items on the menu with cocktails, wines and beer.

Ginley also discovered that the best way of motivating guests to order new drinks is by offering them small samples of the concoctions. Over half of the respondents said that sampling the drink beforehand prompted their decision to purchase.

One last interesting glimpse into the collective minds of your guests. When not socializing with beverage alcohol, 42% of the respondents said that they would be interested in ordering alcohol-free beverages priced up to $4.00. There has been a steady increase in the acceptance of beverages prepared without alcohol.

TEN PROMISING NEW SPIRITS OF 2007

You’ve undoubtedly heard the adage that the only constant is change. It’s especially true in the beverage industry, where suppliers continually introduce new groovy products to capture the drinking public’s imagination. Often watching where the major shakers and movers in our industry place their resources is an excellent indicator of future trends. On the off chance that you might have missed the initial fanfare surrounding their introduction, here are some of the most promising new spirits and liqueurs introduced last year. Guaranteed they’ll look great on your backbar.

• EVAN WILLIAMS SINGLE BARREL BOURBON is a spectacular, world-class whiskey, the only one of its kind. The 1997 vintage of Evan Williams Single Barrel offers whiskey enthusiasts a veritable extravaganza for the senses. It is endowed with a voluminous bouquet of vanilla, cocoa, pipe tobacco and candied fruit. The satiny palate is a lavish affair, a puckery offering of ripe cherries, cereal grains and fruit. The finish is like an extended paid vacation—delightful to the last moment. Remarkable bourbon.

• G’VINE GIN DE FRANCE is a quadruple distilled in copper alembic stills from Ugni Blanc grapes of Cognac fame. The neutral grape spirits are then infused with nine botanicals and fleur de vigue, the distilled oils of the Ugni Blanc grape flower. The gin has a generous bouquet of lightly spiced, citrus and fresh floral aromas, a medium weight body and a voluptuous mouth feel. The palate features a set of spicy, semi-sweet and floral flavors with a rush of lime notes on the finish. A small batch gem.

• IDÔL VODKA is a French ultra-premium spirit handcrafted in small batches from noble Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from the vineyards of Burgundy. The vodka is bound to cause a sensation, especially with consumers who appreciate fine wine and the Burgundy terroir. It has a delectably fruity bouquet, plush, velveteen body and a delicate, sun-drenched palate. Distilled seven times and filtered five, Idôl is a laudable, top-shelf brand.

• Gran Centenario has extended its world-class range of tequilas with the release of LEYENDA EXTRA, a seductive añejo aged an average of four years in French Limousin oak barrels, after which the Maestro Tequilero adds in older reserves to complete the blend. The ultra-premium añejo is a masterful achievement. It has a dark amber color with a satiny, medium weight body and a vanilla, clove and oaky bouquet. The palate starts spicy and finishes long and luxurious.

• Even if you have no pulse you’ll better drinking ZUBRÓWKA VODKA, a traditional Polish spirit distilled entirely from rye containing a slender blade of bison grass that’s said to give one vitality and strength. The essential oils in the aromatic, hand harvested grass give the tantalizing vodka a greenish tint and an assertive herbal nose. The palate is spicy, peppery and reminiscent of a fine silver tequila. A European classic.

• RITTENHOUSE 21 YEAR OLD STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY is an exquisite and divinely inspired single barrel spirit hand-selected from Heaven Hill’s legendary reserves of aging whiskey. It is not chill filtered and bottled in its natural state. The whiskey has a generous, spicy bouquet, a seamless body and a huge initial entry. It immediately fills the mouth with a magnificent array of delectable fruity, peppery and toasted oak flavors. The finish is long and sublime. This must be the whiskey they drink in heaven.

• RHUM CLÉMENT VIEUX X.O. is handcrafted on Martinique, it is a blend of well-aged rums, including those from the famed vintages of 1952, 1970 and 1976. Be prepared to be amazed. The amber/gold rhum is marvelously aromatic with notes of honey and leather. Its palate is a layered affair of vanilla, baking spice, almonds and brown sugar. The finish is genuinely world-class. Rhum Clément Vieux X.O. is as elegant and luxurious of a spirit as has ever been put into a bottle. Grab it while you can.

• The growing fascination with cachaça is bound to get a tremendous boost from the recent release of CACHAÇA YPIÓCA 160, a special reserve distilled from fresh sugar cane juice, aged six years in oak barrels. It also contains imported malt, which imbues the spirit with a singularly delicious character. The cachaça has an amber hue, an oily, lightweight body and a captivating bouquet of malt, cocoa and vanilla. It fills the mouth with waves of dry, spicy flavors that persist long into the finish. Be prepared to be wowed.

• PARTIDA AÑEJO 100% AGAVE TEQUILA — Highly esteemed Partida Añejo is too magnificent to share with friends. It’s matured for 18 months in oak barrels previously used to age Jack Daniel’s. During aging the tequila acquires an alluring copper hue and generous aromas of ripe red fruit, honey and cocoa. It has a lushly textured, satiny smooth body and waves of pastry like flavors. The finish is top notch.

• Ultra-premium PYRAT CASK 1623 is a classic in the making, an assertive rum, brimming with high-ester character and taste. It is crafted from a blend of nine, barrel-aged alembic rums distilled in the Caribbean. Cask 1623 has a luminescent, deep amber hue and a bouquet with the enticing aromas of vanilla, chocolate and oranges. The palate slowly builds in intensity revealing layers of spicy flavors. Priced at an average retail of $289, the rum is a glorious experience.